tav29

Description	Lamborghini part number	OEM details	Notes	note 2
pump, electric, Bendix	MA-04213	Bendix, Elmira, #480532, neg.12v	red top	small sediment filter in base cap
cap, gas tank fill	BI-04253	gas tank cap tappo serbatoio benzina bouchon reservoir	black plastic	used on Lambo 350/400, Ferrari 275/330, and ?
pin, strap - 2ea	BI-03081	6 x 60 steel pin, 2mm holes on 56mm center	black
pin, cotter - 2ea	CPN-00155	2mm cotter pins	plain
screw, draw	BI-03084	5 x 0.8 , slotted, cylinder head special	black
pin, strap draw	BI-03079	12 x 30mm, 6mm hole, 2.5deep x 10across recess flat, steel	black
pin, strap draw	BI-03080	12 x 30mm, threaded 5 x 0.8 , steel	black
strap, gas tank short	BI-03747	1 x 30 steel material, 110mm center eye to eye, 12mm width slot thru large eye, spot welded end loops	black paint
strap, gas tank long	BI-03646	1 x 30 steel material, 605mm center eye to eye, 90 bend @118mm from large eye center, 12 mm slot, spot	black paint
filter, pick up	MA-03074	SALVA, 10mm ID x 15.3 OD x 80mm overall length	nylon mesh	see photo
fuel pick up pipe	MA-03667	banjo fitting with brass pipe brazed in	non-magnetic	see photo
gasket, copper washer	RN-00922	18.05mm ID x 30mm OD x 1mm thick	copper
vent fitting	BI-04057	aluminum fabrication, simple straight thru vent	unpainted
tubing, vent	BI-03954	green, Cavis, 6mm, plastic tubing	green plastic
screw, machine oval	VN-02359	4.0mm x 0.70 x 10mm, oval head, straight slot, brass, chrome	chrome
screw, machine round	VN-04198	4.0mm x 0.70 x 30mm, round head, straight slot, steel	clear zinc

nut	DN-03343	4.0 x 0.75, brass	brass
clamp, band - 2ea	FN-02168 8830111	steel, simple P loop, 10mm wide, 6mm hole, loop to fit OD of green Cavis vent tubing	black
screw, sheet metal, not shown	VN-02847 8700405	to fasten FN-02168, Panhead, Phillips, sheetmetal screw 4.8 x 9.5 Din 7981 / N	clear zinc
gasket, red fiber	MA-01474	14 x 10 x 2 red fiber gasket ring
gasket, red fiber	MA-01476	20 x 14 x 2 red fiber gasket ring
gasket, copper	RN-00922 8401804	annealed copper washer 18.2 x 30 x 1	copper
gasket, copper	RN-03672 8404001	copper washer 40.2 x 54 x 1.5	copper
gasket, paper	BI-03372 6205360	fuel level sender gasket paper or elastomer	black neoprene
sending unit, Jaeger	BI-03331		clear zinc
float, sending unit		OEM cork float dimension - 28mm dia x 42mm long x 2mm bore Model A Ford float can be a direct replacement for Lamborghini Jaeger float	cork or better	http://www.mikes-afordable.com

Bendix electric fuel pump: They are still made by Facet (who bought somebody who bought Bendix) and the correct version for the 4.0L Lambo engine is available from several sources.

http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/media/technology/hd_pdfs/Cylindrical.pdf

You must be careful in this pursuit of electric pumps - many pumps are 1/8"-27 npt internal thread inlet/outlet and this is not correct!
What is correct and original size is 1/4"-18 npt internal thread inlet/outlet (480532 and 480534 are the only numbers i know of that have these correct inlet/outlet.) look at chart above!

09/2007 - Bendix or Facet numbers are stamped in mounting feet. Number system has been used since 60's. Most times these numbers are hidden by grommets.

Bendix / Facet number	Rating	size	automotive known as	notes	source for purchase 2007	aprox price
480532 12V neg	45gph/5.0psi	1/4 npt	competition red top	early Bendix pump - entire pump dome is painted red, the later Facet pump - red dot sticker pasted on. The OEM Bendix is silver Zinc plated, while the later Facet has been chromated to a gold color. Also a change in the electrical fitting.	Truechoice Motorsports 40 Industrial Park Place Powell, OH 43065 www.truchoice.com	$93

Miura replacement fuel line circa 1976 maybe earlier - #5 ferrules are stamp marked - scovill, made in us, 7325

tool for crimp shown on Miura fuel line (circa 1976) - http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=5229-CV500
ferrule 7325 - http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=03093716543
maybe this is an option for others - i still need a lead on the fittings please
2007 update on fuel line - in order to achieve a more original looking fuel rail, the desired ferrules (same as above) should be silver zinc plated prior to crimp. also the crimp tool should not be so agressive as shown, what is now preffered is a four sided, smooth jaw crimp leaving a smooth crimped ferrule. The finished look is more like the OEM 1967-1972 era fuel rail.

MA-03682 fuel line from tank pipe MA-03667 to the Bendix fuel pump MA-04213/MA-04214. The braided meatal is magnetic, the ferrules uncrushed aluminum, the banjo are different sizes of course but with same threadin for the fuel line. The braid is not skived, and in fact, once the fittings are threaded out, the braid is loose enough to allow slipping off the hose and replacing hose.
MA-02831 (above arrow is drawn to the wrong item) Same fitting type, fittings are brass with clear or silver zinc plating. dimensions given for the non-crush style ferrules.
MA-03663 fuel line from Bendix to solid fuel line to rear

top view Fiamm fuel filter
	Fiaam fuel filter hardware red paper gaskets clear zinc plated hardware
	Bendix "Elmira" Photo shows an unrestored 1968 Bendix from a 1968 Miura One of the amatuer restoration mistakes is the placement of the Bendix sticker. While the sticker would look nicer on the forward side, it is only correct on the rear side as shown. There are three different Miura mount styles for this Bendix electric fuel pump. Early Miura style, late Miura style, wrong Miura style.

http://www.mikes-afordable.com/page/MFP/CTGY/1067 - three 1928-31 Model A Ford/64-74 Lamborghini float choices for under $10

    Happy New Year 2012 and the VERY best wishes to you all this for this one. Just wanted to share a little gem for those who are doing those 'clean up some rust' jobs. I had to clean the tank before re-installing to 3288, but found both what appeared to be heavy surface rust and some kind of polymer de-rust/sealand compound in the tank.
    The Miura tank design and 4 internal baffles made it a pain to try and clean properly, so cut a hole for access and to scrape the sealer out, but then still had the problem of rust on the non accessible side fo the baffles.
    Using a battery at first, then a battery charger (for reasons that will become apparent), I now have a beautifully clean steel tank ready to have the patch rewelded in place and refit.
General instructions for de-rusting parts or tanks.
1. Carbonate of soda (washing soda) in solution as the electrolyte.
Fill the tank (or a bucket with a solution of one cup washing soda (or you can use bi-carbonate of soda) crystals to 20 litres water.
2. Place a cleaned steel bar down through the filler spout (or in the bucket solution). Wrap sponge rubber or some kleenex cloths round the bar so it won't short to the tank/parts.
3. Hook the positive from the battery / charger to the bar.
4. Hook the negative to the tank exterior (or item to be de-rusted).
5. Initially the current could be 10 amps or more, so I used a battery first.
The current will drop down as the rust is removed into the solution (and if you have a weaker solution of carbonate/bi-carbonate) and a battery charger is more appropriate then for a longer time running (mine is a max of 6amp).

The rust is removed in a kind of 'line of sight/closest first' manner.
I swapped to three smaller bars, placing these in behind the baffles to get the rust from those more directly.
This also loosened the last pieces of 'sealant' that I couldn't get to, which were affixed to the tank by what appears to be a rust converter/inhibitor ingredient. That released when the electrolysis occurred.

I cleaned the bars of the build up of rust a few times. As the water was so discoloured, I changed the solution 4 times in the first 12 hours. Trick is to get the electrolyte solution covering every bit of rust, which for me included the underside of a flat top surface!! Left it running overnight (another 20 hrs)with a clean (weaker) solution and ..... 10am New Years eve, the tank was spotless inside.

Washed out with water and dried with compressed air. I noted that a coppery colour begins to form almost immediately (rusting process starts!) so sprayed with some CRC and all good.Will follow up with a little petrol and oil mix as soon as the patch is welded back into place and cleaned off.
    Please note a couple of things though;
1. This is for rust on steel. (Alloy or carbs could need a different solution.
2. The electrodes will suffer if immersed in the solution! Two of my spring clips got electro eaten overnight.

Hope this helps some of you fine fellows this year. Cheers and ciao
TonyO (in supposedly summertime NZ, but dodging tropical storms for a 10 days stretch this Christmas! Go figure).